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Even with it, it is a pig to get at and takes ages to screw in tight! Also, the hole is handy for getting at the reverse switch if something happens to it.Ĥ-synch gearboxes of both types have a breather at the front left of the gearlever remote unit.
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Without it I think you would have to take out the gearbox etc. "The 'cut-out' modification in the transmission tunnel is essential for getting to the screw in part of the cable where it goes into the gear box. "You have to drop the pan because the cable end fixes into a cam in the gearbox and there is no other way to get to it. Using that bit of information André took the plunge, and subsequently wrote back to me with the following:
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Kickdown cable: André Wilding contacted me to ask if I could offer any advice in changing the kick-down cable, as the gearbox end seems to be concealed inside the gearbox, and where it goes in is concealed by the tunnel! I have no personal experience of changing one of these cables, but from the diagrams and descriptions in the workshop manual it appeared that the pan might have to be removed, which would mean draining the fluid first of course. It's just above the bracket for the clutch pipe and hose in the tail that leads down to the starter. There is a bullet connector in the white/red between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid (68 and 69 models) or the relay (70 and later) on Mk2 CB cars, which is where the transmission safety switch/starter inhibitor wires are connected when the automatic gearbox is fitted. However it's much easier doing that with a 5-main engine than a 3-main as described by Paul Walbran. 4-sync gearboxes are occasionally installed in Mk1 bodies as they are more plentiful and cheaper than 3-synch, in which case the large removable panel on top of the tunnel has to be extended to move the gear lever hole back. Mk1 cars are most easily recognised from the tunnel, which has a hump round the gear lever whereas 4-synch tunnels are flat. Reverse will crunch on both 3 and 4-synch. Originally Mk1 cars were fitted with 3-synch gearboxes, and the primary recognition factor of those is if they crunch when you try to select 1st gear when moving. Overtightening bolts can cause covers to warp between adjacent bolt holes and leak more, check they are flat before fitting. Great gobs of it will get extruded out into the works and can rip paper/card/cork gaskets as the bolts are tightened. Use something non-hardening such as Loctite MR5922, and only a thin smear. Gasket sealants - don't use silicone-based as they 'go off' very quickly. Thank you.ģ-Synch_or_4-synch? Automatic Breather Drive_Flange Gear_Lever Gearbox_Removal How_It_Works Interlocking_Arm_Assembly Internals Lubricants Mounts_and_crossmember Oil_Change Overdrive:_D_and_LH_Type_Differences Overdrive_Electrics Overdrive_Fusing Overdrive_'Pulsing' Overdrive_Replacement Overdrive_Sequencer_Relay Overdrive:_How_many_were_there? Rear_Seal Reversing_Light_Switch Speedometers Torque_Values Links To help offset the costs of providing it. You may like to make a small contribution Miscellaneous Downloadable PDFs The sectioned MGB at the British Motor Museum, Gaydon Contents Index So you think you want an MGB or V8?īody Brakes Clutch Cooling Electrics Engine Fuel Gearbox Heater Ignition Propshaft Rear axle Steering and Suspension Wheels and Tyres